Strange week...

We had the three days before Christmas. Now we have the same before New Year.

I noted strange in the title, because the year seems to fade away here. I see few reasons for this. First, we have beautiful sunshine everyday... all the days seem to look the same, weather wise. 

Then, the daily rythm is around food, either eating some or gathering some. The days are short, from 7:30 to 6:00, 6:30; By the time we finish breakfast and the morning chores, lunch is looming...then siesta, and a hop into the nice warm pool.

It is a toss... cooking or going out... when one pays less than $20 Canadian to eat for two with beer in a restaurant... it is tempting NOT to cook.

Monday, we went shopping to Wal-Mart and the Mercado, a BIG Soriana supermarket. We were in Chapala, about an hour away from the camp. To be frank, the shopping was below our expectations... the stores look like their norther counterpart, but it was Monday after Christmas, the shelves were somewhat empty and the stores looked disorganized. 

Once again, the lack of Spanish makes it a barrier. Asking for what you want is difficult at best. Understanding the labels, figuring out what are the fruits or the vegetables prove a challenge.

We bought margarine instead of butter and some imitation cheese instead of the real thing! Patience will fix it!

It was about 5 as we came back and there was a suggestion to go out for supper; we did. The same place as last week. It was it usual, good, no frills, and we had a shot of homemade tequila, offered by the chef (right on the picture below; left is Ken). The mural is marvellous...

We finished the evening with a Nevado de Toluca, a local ice cream. It was good, with a somewhat different consistency compared to ours. A bit too sweet, may be. It feels like Mexicans have a sweet tooth. We then strolled in the Plaza, enjoying the peace and the warm evening, chatting and being happy to be there.

Tuesday, was a day of rest. The dryer ran out of propane... so Louise had to organize the drying on various spots in the trailer. We enjoyed the doing little, a step at a time. I prepared my usual onion soup, not sure of when we would have it and with whom. The New Year's eve onion soup has been Jerome's staple for years and Julie prepared one too, in Burlington, to continue the tradition.

Wednesday... Last day of the 2008! We went grocery shopping, getting two humongous bags of oranges (about 100 juicy oranges for 1 peso each!). We will share these between the 4 or 5 couples interested here.

I went back with Sonya to get Rotisserie chicken for most of the people here. Very good chicken, a tad greasy, but so tasteful. Here, they serve it with roasted potatoes and hot peppers. Moist and a good 2 meals! (As I said earlier, cooking may not seem that great an idea here.)

We spent a few hours, until about 10:30, around the chimenea; Ken and Kriss, Sonya and Dave, Gigi and Chuck, Ross and Ruth-Ann and Ivan and his wife and sister in-law. Usual chatting; Ivan talk about his participation in the movie Willie 3 and his 70 foot fishing boat in B.C. It was interesting.

It is quite a learning experience meeting these people coming from so many places in life. When we were in Palm Creek, what struck us was the 'similarity' between the various couples; teachers, doctors, civil servants, businessmen. Here, we see a fireman, a couple who spent over twenty years on a sailboat, an ex US submarine officer. We need to explore more, but the "magnet" here is the lifestyle and the richness of the country, in people and things to see and do.

We wished 2009 to be a better and more interesting year for us. We know that, eventually, 2009 will bring changes to our family, not the least, we will probably be all living in a different place than in 2008, us, Julie and Dan and Sophie and Nick!

We wish you all a Happy New Year!

Colima - Pasquales - the Ocean

It looked like a good day to do some touristy stuff, and we went south to Colima, a bit less than 200 km from here.

The city of Colima is the capital of a small coastal state of the same name, and is dominated by a large volcano. The Volcán de Fuego de Colima and the extensive archaeological site of La Campana are two of the most interesting features of the city. As you can see, the 4,300 meters (over 14,000 feet) volcano dominates the archaeological site, one the largest in Mexico.

That being said, we had to ask the local police to get there as we got lost following the usual poor maps. So, here we are, following that green police car, and we reach the site, where only one bus of Mexico city tourist is parked.

No gate, ticket area, souvenir shop... none of the amenities that we have been accustomed to at any tourist site in the North. Eventually, we learn that Sunday is free for the locals... but we had to pay $70 pesos for the admission... still no map! But every area has a bilingual sign, describing the building and its probable use.

The ruins are monumental and it surprising that they resisted all the earthquakes since 900 AD. We were told that other countries are looking at the round stone building technology for its earthquake resistance.

We met a young couple of local Colima residents and we started a nice conversation about the city, the state and what to do and see here. We were suggested a comida (lunch) in a small trendy city nearby, Comala; that did not work as we had a picnic! Then what about going to the ocean? Less than an hour away... here we go for Boca de Pasquales.

We had not seen the Pacific since the Oregon coast, in May, under grey skies. Here, at the end of year, it is warm (31C), the sky is luminous from sunshine and we are enjoying great coqetels de camarones (shrimp cocktails à la mexicaine...).

Mexicans are private and though we were very close to some families, we did not socialize. We did some people watching, and watched our sorbet girl next table handle a 4x4 with some difficulties. The colours are cute and fresh!

We wanted to stay overnight... sorry all the big hotels are full... one with 6 rooms and the other, hammocks only! So it is back to Roca Azul. 

As we leave the capital of limes, Tecomán, we travel in immense coconut tree groves, with lime trees underneath and cows grazing. Nothing is lost or wasted here. We understand they produce copra oil.

The toll road takes us back to Roca Azul and Jocotepec, in time for supper. It crosses chains of volcanoes, fresh water lagunas and is very busy because the people from Guadalajara are returning back from the week-end.

It was a great day and we plan returning to the ocean quite soon.

Quinceañera - Wedding - Around Jocotepec

Saturday was a busy day in the surrounding villages: we saw a coming of age - 15 - for a beautiful young woman in San Pedro Tesistan (click on the map, Roca Azul, San Pedro and San Cristobal are highlighted.) This Quinceañera was extensive (expensive), with 1/2 dozen cute flower girls, nice 'grooms' as her friends, music etc... Must have been a rich local farm owner, but it was kind of strange as the village itself did not strike as rich, though most of the roads here are rebuilt (repaved with cobblestones). It was a nice stroll and we enjoyed 'sharing' this nice and unexpected fiesta with Sonya and Dave who had joined us for the trip.

We continued our 'tour' towards San Cristobal, and surprise, surprise, we had a wedding here! The bride and the groom accepted to pose for our cameras.

The day was getting old and we returned back to Roca Azul. Dave suggested we stop at a BBQ place that only opens on week-ends, to pick up some foods for supper.

Let me show you the pit and the chef pulling pork as captured by Louise:

We choose pulled pork... was like heaven, especially after the 'happy hour' we had below the lighthouse. All our friends were there, and the sunset light was beautiful. We live in a bird sanctuary and, at one point in time there were hundreds of ibises flying close to the water toward the setting sun. 

An evening to remember.

El Malecón de Jocotepec - Christmas Cruise

Christmas Day was quiet. 

Sonya put her magic fingers and prepared a very reinvigorating soup from the pavo's carcass. Some carrots and celery and we were all around our table enjoying it, while the sun was shining; our thoughts went to our families and friends, strapped in the cold and snowy Canada.

Later in the afternoon, Sonya and Dave ask us if we wanted to go to the Malecón, the newly built pier out on Lake Chapala. It was opened in August 2008 and truly offers a nice promenade right on the lake.

 

It was also a "special' for the Fiesta Lago Chapala, a new pontoon boat dedicated to lake cruises. For a modest 50 pesos, we could enjoy an hour on the lake. Sonya and us took the offer. It was a nice cruise, with many Mexican tourists from Gadalajara. A guitar player was serenading us and the ambiance was quite upbeat with children and teenagers enjoying the cruise with their parents.

We went from Joctepec to San Juan and back. It was sunset time and we had some nice skies, but not much reds that evening. A highly recommended cruise.

For some reason, it felt like being in Spain, back in the late 60's.

 The musicians, the laughing crowd, the eternal lovers and the children enjoying a peaceful day.

Mexico has many facets, and the one we experienced today is very pleasant. It give us much motivation to explore more.

Three days before Christmas

One is supposed to write a daily blog... and I can understand as we try to figure out what was happening a few days back. Suffice to say that we managed doing little, with grace, and accomplish even less.

On Monday, I was "convinced" to help rewrite the local web site for the campground. I volunteered with pleasure and anticipation, not realizing that creating a Web site is more demanding that I expected. And it is in English... I will keep you posted!

We had a few hours without electricity on Tuesday -- but everything came back to normal.

Wednesday was the day when Oscar (above), the RV Resort manager, hosted a very nice Christmas lunch for all of us in the Resort (12).  We had a real lunch with all the trimmings, as everyone prepared something delicious. 

 

A fruit cake, no less...

and what about the environment?

This was a real fun day. Of course, we are exhausted and by 6:00, everyone is quiet and retiring to one's trailer! Till tomorrow with great surprises... 

Sunday in Jocotepec

We have to slow down. And we do. 

The day goes by speaking with friends, enjoying the pool, doing very little, very slowly. (With a magnifying glass, you can see Louise... she is there to give a sense of the pool size!)

We end up in a nice local restaurant for supper, the meal was excellent and the company even better. We went to Tia Lupita's  restaurant in San Juan Cosalá , where the food is typico and the decor boast a magnificent mural depicting rural local scenes. We met the artist, but there was some language barrier that we need to break by learning more Spanish. See more on this and other great Mexican experiences in our next door neighbor's blog. Kris and Ken are great travellers and you will enjoy their adventures too!

We had a pretty strong wind at 4 am, for a few minutes. I rush out to close the awning, but no damage. I asked around in the am, and it happens from time to time. In fact, a freak wind created a tornado that landed on San Juan Cosalá a year or two ago.

The next few days will be preparing for our Christmas Dinner (lunch) on the 24th, with pavo (turkey or guajolote). Oscar and his very charming wife, Anna will be the hosts.

Our neigbors - The piñata

Let me present our neighbors:

From California, in a small camper, Ken and Kriss; from Waterloo (ON), Ross and Ruth-Ann (who own a house here that they rent…they live six month here and six months in Waterloo… grand children calling); from Qualicum Beach (BC), Sonia and Dave, in a fifth wheel; from New Mexico, Colleen and Dan, missionaries for Jehovah witness.

We asked the usual questions, as where to do groceries, buy wine, and other useful staples.  Thes people have been camping here for three years; they know the local habits and places. It is really great, as this saves us from ‘groping’ in very broken Spanish, asking for help.

We end up at the Bodega (a Wal-Mart grocery/general store chain). Store is fine for day to day staples, where avocadoes are 30 cents a kilo, or about 5 for a dollar…meat choice is limited, but looks good.

What a surprise as we meet Ross and Ruth-Ann! In 37 years of grocery shopping in Oakville we NEVER met a neighbor or friend! This is a good omen, we think.

Everything around here is casual. Louise went to the pools, one is a warm pool, filled from hot springs, and the other one is a regular, but gigantic pool, a tad colder but very attractive.

In the far end, there is a picnic area, where a party is obviously in progress. Singing, laughing and kids playing everywhere.  Then they move towards a big tree and attach a large paper bag, shaped as a Christmas tree.  Kids, and adults alike, one at a time, try to knock the tree out while being blindfolded. The crowd cheers them shouting right, left, up or down as the blinded person knock air, mostly… lots of laughs!

This is the piñata, an ancient custom. We are invited to participate, and we give it a try. These people are so friendly. They are the family of the wife of the owner. All of them speak English, even the younger children.

Briefly, from Wiki, “A piñata is a brightly-colored paper container filled with candy and/or toys. It is generally suspended on a rope from a tree branch or ceiling and is used during celebrations. A succession of blindfolded, stick-wielding children try to break the piñata in order to collect the sweets (traditionally sugarcane) and/or toys inside of it. It has been used for hundreds of years to celebrate special occasions such as birthdays, Christmas and Easter.”

As one knocks the piñata, it relieves the seven deadly sin from his or her body. At Christmas, the piñata should be a seven pointed star container, representing the seven deadly sins.

When the piñata breaks, all the candies drop and everyone has a little bag to store them for further enjoyment.

To complete the ‘fiesta’ the grand mother came from Guadalajara, all dressed up, looking like a grand lady, that she probably is as we discovered that these families are very old Spanish nobility. They own quite a lot of land and buildings, including the pace we are in now, Roca Azul. (More on this later)

You can browse some pictures here.

Roca Azul - Our first day

Early awakening as the sun rises above the lake, right into our rear trailer window.  We dress and go for a walk along the lake Chapala shore. The pictures we took will better illustrate why this place feels a bit like paradise.

As we come back from our walk, I washed the trailer that was covered with mud. Did the same with the truck… Organized the camp and get most of everything ready to work for what will be a long stay.

On the road - a long and tiring day

5:30 am… we hear the “chant du coq”, (the crowing of the cock ); loud enough to cover the roar of the trucks passing by. We are on the road by 6, pitching dark, against all advice – do not drive in Mexico at night. We cover good mileage in the middle of nowhere as we travel south towards San Louis Potosi, a very large city, and capital of the state of the same name. Named in honor of Louis the IXth of France!

One million people and we better take the periférico, as we want to avoid small city street with our 55 foot rig. We succeed as Louise fights the map which is not clear and quite often omits the road number, when it does not state it wrong as we learned later in the day…

Our trip is going well. Barely 10:30 and we are less than 350 kilometers from the campsite.

Simple enough, Mex70, Mex80…Guadalajara 5 or 6 million people—big, but we will take the north periférico and then it will be smooth sailing to Jocopetec. We should be there by 5 at the latest.

I will pass the details. The Mex 70 is a two lane highway through mountainous region; the Mex 80 is cuota (toll), rather nice but so bumpy, I need to slow down to 70 kmh. Then, Louise suggests, based on our past experience with Guadalajara, to take the NORTH beltway, instead of the south one, which was a nightmare earlier in November. We did… and blew a couple of hours on a beltway with red lights (we had a few green ones). The traffic was intense and we were never too sure of where we were…

But we see the light at the end of the tunnel and reach the autopista towards Colima, which is a few hundred kilometers south but on the road that will eventually connect to the Jocotepec road. The autopista starts as a multilane road, meaning that people drive all other as these lanes are not marked by white lines. We fight and suddenly, we see a junction for something like Jiquilpan on Mex 15… remember we are going towards Jocotepec on Mex 15. Louise stares at the map which says Mex 35, not seeing that it turns as Mex 15 later in the map; a map error as there is no such Mex 35 here… I drove, pass a toll booth, get some gas, as the attendant for Lake Chapala and he shows me that we are on the right road…

We pass a beautiful marsh, as the sun starts to set, Laguna San Marcos. Now we now we are NOT on the right road. Retorno… as two caballeros look at us wondering… we are on a four lane divided highway, facing the entrance of a ranch, in the middle of nowhere. Fantastic  feelings.

At the toll booth, we asked for a refund and the attendant says, in English, sorry no refund and you have to pay again, but she gives us a bargain… truck only, no trailer. She also shows the junction, ½ a mile away.  We take it and within a mile we see a very large banner: JOCOTEPEC!

We make it to the campground by 6:30… and driving on Mex 15 at night is NOT recommended. After so many hours of driving, it took me tons of adrenalin (cheap here) to get through the last 30 kilometers.

As we arrived, our friends welcomed us, helped with torch lights and we finally ate and set for the night!

On the road

Today was the day… as we pack under a nasty cold and misty morning, we mentally prepare for the long road ahead.

The usual tire check (they need air), organizing the truck, preparing for bumpy roads, all this take time and we are ready by nine. Leaving Llano Grande Lake with few memories: a couple of new travel friends, lots of wind, and, in the last few days, cold and very wet. It was the right time to leave.

When we crossed the border the last time, we had no trailer… and, though we were asked to register it, we said no…a BIG mistake, as we need to redo the process from scratch, wasting $40 in the process. We had to move the trailer out, then in, under rain and with mud all over. Eh, not a big deal, save for bit of a fender dent from the trailer hitch.

We left the border at about 10:45. Now we have to drive our 55 foot rig, in the somewhat chaotic Reynosa.  We take cash for the places where credit are not accepted, some gas stations and toll booth.

We drive a somewhat uneventful  500+ kilometers, the four lane highways go from excellent to very bumpy. Get tiring for us and I am sure, for the trailer.

We sleep at a Pemex  gas station… noisy but it feels secure,surrounded by big 18 wheelers.

Christmas with Julie and Sophie - a bit ahead of time

Last night we had our family Christmas celebration, by Skype, with our daughters, Julie and Sophie. Julie's companion, Dan was there, but Sophie's love, Nick, was still in Vancouver. A year ago we were in Costa Rica for Christmas, the girls and us, but no boyfriend.

Julie was proud to have prepared steaks for Sophie and Dan, as she enjoyed fresh salmon. It reminded us of the family gathering we used to have in Oakville.

It was a happy moment as we discussed our plans to go to Attitash, NH in March, with them and their friends. They offered us a very nice coupon for a spa or other nice personal treatment. Thanks.

We also chat about our own plans for Christmas, in Mexico. It was a pleasure to be there together by 'phone'. Next year we will need to plan for getting together in Mexico.

Today is 'organisation' day, getting the last minute stuff, starting to prepare the trailer; I put new tires on the truck last week. It is exciting and I know we will get the adrenalin going for the next few days. 

My concern is where to spend the nights with the trailer, as we have no information on the Pemex gas stations. We need to remember that we have to make gas every 3 hours or so. But lucky as we are, we will find safe resting spots, I know.

Preparations to Mexico travel

Getting ready for Mexico may sound simple. It is really just an other country south of the US. The map on the right illustrates our planned itinerary. In metric, over 1,200 km... or 800 miles. A few days at least.

Let's prepare: What about Car insurance? Immunization? Passports? Should we take food, or wine or booze? Currency?

What about maps, travel guides, English (or French) information?

Mexico is truly another country.  As we crossed the border a few weeks ago, we realized that, for the most part, English is NOT spoken here. Not even at the border where we had to painfully work our way in sign language, under the giggling of nice Mexican bank tellers. As we went, naive and green, with nothing but a keen desire to view by ourselves, we eventually appreciated that we needed more Spanish and a bit more prep before taking the 30 foot trailer with us for a 1,200 km ride.

Last week was 'immunization' week as Louise and I went first for Hepatitis A and B and then Typhoid. I was kind of proud as I did not faint, as I usually do when I see needles.

Maps and Guides: this is not obvious as there seem to be ONE quality map publisher.

We 'amazoned' a lot and received Choose Mexico for retirement, a very informative book on 'where and how' to retire in Mexico; The People's Guide to Mexico, a kind of bible for the traveler; Distant neighbours, a short story of Mexico; and we round it up at Barnes and Noble with the Moon guide: Pacific Mexico. We have been reading these and after our earlier trip they prove quite informative as we now understand Mexico a tad better.

The systems are 'GO' with new batteries for the cameras, new external drive to store the gazillions pictures we will take, and a macerator to deal with the less than perfect drainage system in Mexico.

We will leave Wednesday morning as the birds wake up, with a tingle and a sense of discovery. One of our plan is to look for a place to call home; we certainly hope to find it as we explore Mexico in the coming months.

The first stop will be between Monterrey and Matehuala. A Pemex gas station, most likely. We will keep you 'posted' as we get there.

We are moving... again... to Mexico this time

After months of wandering, from cool and green British Columbia, to windy and sunny Rio Grande Valley (RGV), in Texas, we are now planning to 'settle' in Jocopetec for some time. We will be there just in time for 'Felix Navidad', Saturday, December 20th. 

We have made this decision after 10 days of 'truck' travel in Mexico from RGV. See our photo  album.

As we travel south, we will keep you posted. 

I revived our Hughes Net Satellite link and we are 'devouring' books on Mexico. We know, from other's experience, that it will be a marvellous adventure.

The entrance to the RV resort: