Mescala – Digging Mexican History

“[…] In 1815, Narváez [a well-known Spanish naval officer] participated in a blockade of the rebel stronghold of Mescala Island in Lake Chapala, near Guadalajara. Narváez watched as royalist forces attempted and failed to take Mescala Island at least four times, taking significant loses in the process. The Spanish commander in charge of crushing the rebels was Brigadier José de la Cruz, who had also been in charge of the military tribunal that found Narváez guilty of treason in 1811. Having failed to take Mescala Island by storm, Cruz conducted a ruthless scorched earth campaign around the entire lake. Late in 1816 the rebels on Mescala Island finally surrendered. […]”

This is NOT the entire story, as Jesús, our local guide, explains, in Spanish.We planned this visit based on the suggestion of our friends, here, in Roca Azul. Deborah, Anna, Louise and I get in the truck, early, as it is 50 km away… you know, the usual – takes more time than planned. This time, we reach the little city of Mescala quickly, and are ready to embark in the small fiberglass water taxi to the island of the same name.

This is a really big archeological site, with up to 200 workers, digging, bricklaying and paving…

We are not fluent enough in Spanish, though Jesús makes a special effort to speak slowly and we can get some of the story. But Anna is great help as she translates into English and illustrates the dramas that took place here. Many people died here, fighting for their freedom from the Spanish colonial government.

It is recent history, also, as some of the events were as recent as 1910. This island was a fort, an hospital (quite enormous), a prison, and a place where people fought and starved to death.

The island itself is small, but commands an amazing view of the lake and its shores. This is an ancient volcano, and all the construction is in lava blocks or pumice, used to pave the cobbled roads and the immense plaza in front of the fort. It is hard to imagine the efforts in building these roads and plazas, when the stones are about five inches in length on average, and the place is hundreds of feet wide. Most of these are in their original state.

The buildings are still standing, except for the newer church and the hospital which lost its roof to a tromba, or whirlwind, common on the lake during the rainy season.

Jesús is now 76, and has lived on the island for over 40 years. He is the only resident. I wished one could tape his stories, as they will most likely die with him. Is he always true to history? It does not matter, the island comes alive with his words, with the Good and the Bad clearly defined and fighting for liberty and safety. We learn of the local Toltec, fighting the ‘imported’ Aztecs – who came with the Spaniards. We relive Santa Anna and Encarnation Rosas endless fights against the Spanish and their dedication to the Revolution. We know how the states of Jalisco and Michoacán fought for the lake – the hospital is in Michoacán, while the fort is in Jalisco…such a small island, such a great history.

We have a light lunch in Mescala, close to the church. It was a great trip. The photographers, Jerome, especially, is very happy, and will nurse a little sunburn!

 

 

 

The road back offers beautiful lake views, and we will surely come back here again.