Mescala – Digging Mexican History

“[…] In 1815, Narváez [a well-known Spanish naval officer] participated in a blockade of the rebel stronghold of Mescala Island in Lake Chapala, near Guadalajara. Narváez watched as royalist forces attempted and failed to take Mescala Island at least four times, taking significant loses in the process. The Spanish commander in charge of crushing the rebels was Brigadier José de la Cruz, who had also been in charge of the military tribunal that found Narváez guilty of treason in 1811. Having failed to take Mescala Island by storm, Cruz conducted a ruthless scorched earth campaign around the entire lake. Late in 1816 the rebels on Mescala Island finally surrendered. […]”

This is NOT the entire story, as Jesús, our local guide, explains, in Spanish.We planned this visit based on the suggestion of our friends, here, in Roca Azul. Deborah, Anna, Louise and I get in the truck, early, as it is 50 km away… you know, the usual – takes more time than planned. This time, we reach the little city of Mescala quickly, and are ready to embark in the small fiberglass water taxi to the island of the same name.

This is a really big archeological site, with up to 200 workers, digging, bricklaying and paving…

We are not fluent enough in Spanish, though Jesús makes a special effort to speak slowly and we can get some of the story. But Anna is great help as she translates into English and illustrates the dramas that took place here. Many people died here, fighting for their freedom from the Spanish colonial government.

It is recent history, also, as some of the events were as recent as 1910. This island was a fort, an hospital (quite enormous), a prison, and a place where people fought and starved to death.

The island itself is small, but commands an amazing view of the lake and its shores. This is an ancient volcano, and all the construction is in lava blocks or pumice, used to pave the cobbled roads and the immense plaza in front of the fort. It is hard to imagine the efforts in building these roads and plazas, when the stones are about five inches in length on average, and the place is hundreds of feet wide. Most of these are in their original state.

The buildings are still standing, except for the newer church and the hospital which lost its roof to a tromba, or whirlwind, common on the lake during the rainy season.

Jesús is now 76, and has lived on the island for over 40 years. He is the only resident. I wished one could tape his stories, as they will most likely die with him. Is he always true to history? It does not matter, the island comes alive with his words, with the Good and the Bad clearly defined and fighting for liberty and safety. We learn of the local Toltec, fighting the ‘imported’ Aztecs – who came with the Spaniards. We relive Santa Anna and Encarnation Rosas endless fights against the Spanish and their dedication to the Revolution. We know how the states of Jalisco and Michoacán fought for the lake – the hospital is in Michoacán, while the fort is in Jalisco…such a small island, such a great history.

We have a light lunch in Mescala, close to the church. It was a great trip. The photographers, Jerome, especially, is very happy, and will nurse a little sunburn!

 

 

 

The road back offers beautiful lake views, and we will surely come back here again.

Tapalpa

The social events are taking a great time and our visiting the country has been seriously curtailed! However, we were able to fit a visit to Tapalpa in our schedule Friday.

We left early (Mexican time...) as we knew that the over 100 km would take a solid three to four hours as we would stop and visit on our way there. First the usual Mex 15 to the 54D, going south to Colima. Then, about 50km on the 54D, we make a turn towards the mountains, and reach Amacueca. It is early... Mexicans are barely out and we stroll in the village, which is a coffee town, in fact. We will get some, and it is so fresh and smell so good... 

Of course these merchants are up to date and seal the coffee bag properly.

It is warm, sunny and really pleasant as we walk and visit the Natural Science Museum. Quite nice, with plenty of information on the local flora, fauna, geology and paleontology. Unexpected in such a small town.  We learn that it rarely freezes here, though we are pretty high (four days a year, may be).

The road to Tapalpa from here, only 50 km, is through volcano peaks and is pretty sinuous. Very slow trucks give us a chance to admire the scenery...The scenery is slowly turning to a pine forest, from the giant cactus trees when we cross the gap in the sierra Tapalpa.

Tapalpa is a 'Magic City', with narrow cobblestone streets, on the side of a volcano. It is always up or down, and the Plaza is dominated by a brand new church, in bricks, built in 1970 to replace the old one that burned then. The brick work is extraordinary. If you need brick work, please hire a Mexican! You will be amazed.

We enjoyed this city very much. During our lunch we did some people watching. We head up for Las Piedrotas (Las Piedras... or the [Big] Rocks), a strange geological formation of big boulders, up to 30 or 40 meters high, sitting in a middle of a wide valley, outside of Tapalpa. The sun was out and we could hear some thunder. We were told that the best time to see these rocks are in the fall, when the valley is green and lush. Definitely a place to come back to.

The return to Jocotepec was without incident. We had to go through the sierras again, and the view on the various lakes surrounding Guadalajara was breathtaking. It was a very pleasant trip and it is on our plans to revisit later this year.

Louise just finished a new Picasa album:

Social times

Excuses: 

The last two weeks were spent in non-Mexican stuff, so to speak. I had to do some taxes for my company, Simple Interface, and deal with my best customers to get them going for 2009 sales season. Both were demanding and reminding me that with the drop in stock prices and the value of the Canadian dollar, work was still a reality for me, and for Louise to some extent. But there is hope that will change... at least in our lifetime.

Medical stuff: 

As long as we can mix work and Mexican lifestyle, we should be fine. We also spent a bit of time dealing with the local medical system. A really different process compared to the system up north. The system is fantastic and very efficient. They have few lawyers here, and the medical personnel is somewhat not as worried about lawsuits compared to Canada or the US. There is a National Social Security insurance IMSS, which is graduated when you join to reduce the cost. We have been told that it is about CAN$350 per person per year. Our next week 'exploration'.

Social times:

Last Sunday, we were invited by Keith and Deborah, a couple from Victoria, B.C., who were camping here, waiting for their house in Ajijic to be vacated by its tenant. 

It was their first time in their new home, and we all enjoyed their warm hospitality, the view and the excellent Molletes prepared by the restaurant next door. 

Keith is an Information Consultant for the B.C. Government and we had a number of interesting discussions on our favorites techno topics. B.C. seems far away, especially when Keith treated us with a great pipes song. 

Mike and Terry Church, the renown authors of "Mexican Camping" joined us in Roca Azul earlier this week. A very nice couple, well travelled and really enjoyable as they talk about their various experiences in America and Europe. 

Their books are a mine of valuable information. We enjoyed a sunset and a bonfire with them, the camping group and Oscar and Ana, the young managers of Roca Azul. The evening was a treat.

To finish the social week, Jim and Myrna, from Ontario, asked the group to join them in their new "camping" location. The place is owned by Mario, an avant garde restauranteur in Ajijic, who prepared shrimps in mango sauce (not typically Mexican, but very tasty), chicken in green pepper sauce, excellent rice with vegetables.

This place is a unique combination of apartment and RV space(s). The apartment on the second floor is beautiful, with large rooms and magnificent red wood panelled closets. On the ground floor, there is a toilet, a large kitchen, ready for entertainment, and the terrace we had our party, with quite a few tables and chairs.

In the back-end, across the well manicured garden is the concrete pad for the RV. There are three spots, designed for van conversion or truck campers (Class B or smaller). Not for full size motorhomes!!!! We would not fit with our rig.

The entrance is narrow, with a nice deep ditch for water, just deep enough for Jim's motorhome to hit the very narrow street with the back of it. Then he had to negotiate a 90 degree turn in a space barely larger than his motorhome length. The grass had to be run over, for sure...

It took over three hours for Jim to park his 42 foot motorhome. The picture can best describe the challenge. The only access are from the concrete path in the foreground. 

Quite an interesting concept! We've never seen that before -- it is new and we will follow this to see if it becomes fashionable here.

Jim and Myrna bought a land last year and are building a house on part of it. The renters of the apartment, Paul and Marian, from Saskatchewan, just bought a new home and are looking for renters in April... we may consider.

Local life:

It is amazing how fast the weeks go by. We have been a month here and it feels like we 'belong' here. Of course, these people are all from Canada or the US, and it remains to be seen how long it will take to make Mexican friends.

To help in that process, Louise is giving French lessons to Ana, the wife of the RV Park manager here in Roca Azul, in exchange for Spanish lessons. She is very bright, and both Oscar and her remind us of our own children. They are very pleasant and attentive to their guest's needs, and we like it! This week-end (Jan 24/25), the camp was pretty full, with 25 big RVs from Quebec, and over 95 campers, 'Dads and children' spending bonding time together.

Day of shopping - Mexican style

After a quiet few days, we  decide to go shopping in Guadalajara, Saturday, of all days... old habits die hard, I guess.

And we wanted to go to Costco, almost in a tourist way. However, Louise and I felt that we should also do some ruins (Ixtepete). No such things as traveling to Guadalajara just for shopping. It looked close and after careful planning(?) we are on our way to Costco. We leave late, about 10:30, but it is only an hour drive.

This is a beautiful day and the road crosses volcano chains and small villages, all a pleasure to the eyes. Louise is trying to make a collection of 'truck load' pictures, as we met very 'overburdened' trucks (and donkeys, too). One day, we will set up a tripod along a busy road and wait for these colorful  trucks. In some ways, it was a short jump from the donkeys to the pickup trucks... save for the donkeys complaining and the trucks do not!

I noted earlier that it is hard to figure out the actual size of Guadalajara. I guess that the city proper is about one and half million, much spread out. Then we have the suburbs, like Zapotan, where Costco is located, running in the millions. The estimate is about 4.3 millions in 2008. The second largest city after Mexico City, DF.

To ease the traffic load, which is very heavy, they built a number of tunnels, that crosses the city and give fast and easy access to major areas, if you know your way. Let me explain. First the intersections or exits are well marked with the usual green panels... except many are hidden behind trees. Then, the one you catch are usually telling things like Universidad por Vallarta... just before the exit; of course, by the time we make it, that this the exit to Avenida Vallarta, via Avenida Universidad, we are under the tunnel... and exit a few kilometers later, lost.

We finally make it, thanks to Microsoft Streets and Trips, with GPS (highly recommended!), and reach Costco after a tight retorno and a narrow parking entrance. We are welcomed with a huge dark smoke coming out of a diesel generator. Nothing to worry about, it seems.  We are slowly learning that when there is smoke, it is a sign of activity, not fire. Mexicans seem to like smoke as they burn fields, tires, oil, whatever make the most smoke.

First thing first, we have lunch in the Costco cafeteria, which is outside. Louise enjoys a copious chicken salad, à l'américaine and I do a quick pass to a hot dog. Next to us are gringos, and a number of wealthy Mexicans. The parking is quite full, and we expect the store to be a bit overcrowded, with the usual Saturday family shopping.

Not so. It is busy, but no crying children, every one seem to enjoy the shopping. So are we, as we fill our cart quickly with various groceries. They have wine and we try to stick to less than MEX$100, or about CAN$9.00 wines. Not so easy here, as Costco keeps a large inventory of expensive wines.

Beer is OK, and for our Ontario friends, getting Corona's is about 50 cents canadians a bottle. The cheap beer, which is still very good, is even less.

The fruits and vegetables are disapointing and so is the meat and fish section. No lamb, mainly chicken and pork and some beef. All very expensive. Salmon is same price than Canada, as good too!

Overall, Costco seems priced for the very upper echelon of Mexicans and Expats. No bargains here, as the paper towels are over CAN$2.50 a roll... I guess we may go back, but it is not as attractive as it is in the US or Canada, for sure. The book and DVD sections are very tiny, and the clothes are nice, but pricey.

Across the parking lot, there is a Mega general store, not unlike a Loblaw's SuperStore. Of course, same ownership... La Comer, which is currently bankrupt, with over US$2 billion of unsecured debts. We finish our shopping there. The buy of the day is the city street guide for Guadalajara... proper, no suburbs. The Mexican way, I thought!  It is time to head back home... No ruins today, as we are simply exhausted.

The return to Roca Azul is smooth. Eh! we know our way NOW! Our neighbours gather around us, asking how it went, and, quite seriously, Ross said: "I should have told you about the tunnels..."! Thanks, Ross, at least we learned ourselves.

Sonya proposes that we go to Jocotepec tonight for the fiesta. We will leave at 9:30 pm or so. Louise and I feel and are exhausted. But we will go and see the Castillo, which is monumental. Pictures are worth many words here.

The Mexican Castillo...before...

Being lit!

The church plaza is dark with the crowd and there must be thousands of people here, with very young children, in arms or running around and enjoying themselves. A truly happy bunch. Very enjoyable and it feels very secure.

We are back home by 11:00 pm and fall in beds like logs...

Mazamitla - Return to Roca Azul

We truly saw little of Mazamitla. More planning required? What to expect? We use Lonely Planet (L.P.), which tries, in one volume, to cover the riches of Mexico. Small print. Good information, but we now realize that we need to plan better.

For example, getting some Wiki info before we leave, see what Internet pages are available, etc. The idea is that going to a place because there is a market that day is simply a bit thin!

Of course, we went to the Tourist Office (T.O.); We got a small map, no leaflets on the city save one for buying a house and one for Adventure Tours.

We leave after our Pollo Pillo lunch and go for the El Salto, a nice water fall in Los Casos. We follow the T.O. map, the L.P. instructions, do a few retornos, get confused, lost, and end up visiting a rather new RV Camp on the road from Mazamitla to Valle de Juarez, Hacienda Contreras, where Sal, a retiree from Illinois, gave us a grand tour. His Mexican grand-parents owned the place, and he decided to turn it as an RV Park a year or two ago. Nice showers, laundry, immature trees, but with great potential.

On Sal's recommendation, we are returning via Jiquilpan, Sahuayo, Cojumatlán de Régules, where Louise enjoys a bit more market shopping (two very nice T-Shirts for 100 pesos), and we have tasty and creamy ice cream conos. Finally, we reach  San Luis Soyatlán, where we join a procession in the honour of ... San Luis!

San Luis is rebuilding its Malecón, and we saw all the construction as we detour to let the procession go through the main street. The procession starts with an army (we think) band, followed by young Aztec dancers, the float of the priest (in the passenger seat, calling for prayers), with a friar holding the real relics of San Luis; closing, before the crowd of follower, is a jazz orchestra playing what sounded like New Orleans tunes. It went from the entrance of the village to the church. The whole village was on the street!

Quite enjoyable as we tried to 'blend'... To complete the experience,  Louise tastes a cocktail of freshly cut fruits in a plastic bag... simply out of this world.

Tired, with many great memories, we reach Roca Azul in time for supper and rest.

That Monday could had been made an easy three days or more. We saw some great country, with pine forests and luscious flowers, very nice villages and small towns, we skipped larger cities, but we probably missed plazas, streets and churches worth visiting.

This trip, and the one to the beach earlier, are very instructive as to what one can do in a day, and will help to design a relaxing trip when Louise's twin, Suzanne,  joins us in early March. We enjoyed our home on wheels in Roca Azul!

Mazamitla - Getting there!

Saturday and Sunday were unventful, save for the return of Ken, out of the hospital after his successful  operation. He was very satisfied of the care and attention he received; and the cost seems to be very reasonable compared to the US costs. Let hope his insurance will pay him back.

Monday seemed to be as good a day to do some exploring around. Someone had suggested the mountain town of Mazamitla, in the Sierra del Tigre. This town of 12,000 or so inhabitants, looks a bit like a Swiss one... so they say. It is a Pueblo Mágico, meaning "Magic City", "[...]'magic' in its social and cultural manifestations, with great opportunities for tourism.[...]

Of course, we choose the direct way, via the mountains, not knowing we will be travelling 30 kilometres on a road in construction.
But traffic was light and we also had to deal with:
We make it to Mazamitla... but we know we will pickup a different route to return. Not that the scenery was simply fantastic, but the stress of driving was pretty high...

It is Monday, the day after Sunday... meaning, still quite a few people extending their week-end. We go to the church and enjoy the place as it is beeing scrubbed clean for the day.

Louise gets additional instructions on what to do next from a local.I am not sure what she learned, as we slowly walk the busy streets and enjoy the crowd. We go to the market; there are many stalls, selling everything that one could find in a department store.

People are so nice, they want to sell their wares, but do so in very pleasant and polite way.

I found a number of 'photo op', but I cannot resist sharing this one below now... Not Victoria Secret, but Mexican women sure like color!

We are tired. I t was a long drive and we had been walking for a few hours now. Time for lunch, in a new American style Chicken fast food chain, El Pollo Pillo, the 'Shrewd Chicken". For M$70, we get a 1/2 roasted chicken, tortillas, sauces and two XX cervezas! Your budget goes a long way here!

We know we are missing 99% of the great things to do here, like visiting the "Bosque Natural" or go to the "Miradors" to enjoy the scenery.

We learn, slowly, that getting where you want to be is always longer than you can ever plan, that there is always more to do and see that a day will allow. It seems to us that the rule here is taking your time. Get there. Take a Cabaña, spend a night or two or three, and visit peacefully.

The return trip was full of interseting events too, but this will be on the next blog... taking one's time. 

Hasta luego. 

Laguna de Chapala

Our good friend John asked wether the Lake Chapala was still heavily polluted. As I answered him, we decided to check for ourselves and go for a visit to Chapala itself.

We wanted to kill two birds in one trip, and we also took our empty propane gas cylinders for a refill. Here, one has to go to the distributor (wholesaler?) to get its portable cylinders filled, unless you are a subscriber to the service that exchange cylinders. Our friend David gave us all the necessary instruction to find it, in Chapala as it were.

After some time watching the birds at the camp lighthouse, we learned that Ken is going to see the doctor in Guadalajara as he has strong chest pains. When we came back back from Chapala in the evening, we were told that he was hospitalized and had received an angioplasty in a brand new hospital. As we understood it, he went to the doctor, got diagnosed and went direct to the hospital for the operation. The quality and speed of care was simply amazing. We wish him the best recovery.

Chapala is a charming little town, right on the lake, with a "Promenade" (The Malecon) and some beaches. There are pleasure boats taking you and your family on tours and it was packed with the tourists from Guadalajara.

Pictures may convey more than words here!

New Year's day 2009

We hope that the New Year has started well for all our friends. We understand and are reminded that winter is real in Canada. My good friend Alan shared his thoughts about it in this picture!

Here, in Roca Azul, we enjoyed a New Year's day lunch where Jerome's onion soup, slightly 'EXTENDED', was served to our eight camping friends. First time served at lunch!

Onion soup must be 'gratinée'. Given the oven/grill size in the RV, it would have been difficult to do it for ten; pictures will better describe how this au gratin was solved!

Jerome ladle and cheese the soup, while David is "torching" it... You can see Ken, very attentive and Sonya taking pictures!

Look at the results:

We seem to enjoy the sangrita! Kriss is dreaming!

It was really a very pleasant way to spend our day.

Then Louise found the time to finish our first album of Rocal Azul that you will find here: